The PLEK would now see the dummy fret, and would think that the nut slot is further forward than it would be for this scale length, and would cut it exactly. The PLEK uses a 2mm bit, spinning at 50, rpm to cut the nut slot.
Now it was time to install the LSR roller nut. I marked out the holes for the screws, and drilled pilot holes for the screws to sink into. We always drill pilot holes — this prevents the screws from breaking or stripping out and turning a 20 minute job into a 2 hour job.
Now Mark can put that whammy bar to work with no worries of his guitar going horribly out of tune. I am a musician, guitar tech, and founder of Strange Guitarworks. When not working on guitars, I create experimental music under the moniker of UFO Death Cult, utilizing microtonal instruments of my own design. I also am slowly learning to speak German. Made with by Graphene Themes. Toggle navigation Strange Guitarworks. Defretting a bass guitar Repairing a Collapsed Acoustic Guitar.
Upon seeing the original plastic nut, we could see why he wanted an upgrade: Apologies for the fuzzy photo — but even in focus the nut looks bad!
Measure thrice! Dummy fret used to fool the PLEK. Very sharp — no touchy! Benjamin Strange I am a musician, guitar tech, and founder of Strange Guitarworks. Instagram strangeguitarworks. Apply a little routing magic and sprinkle a touch. Did you know you can ship your guitar to us? We do. How many guitar techs does it take to change a lig. Another hidden feature of our refret work is crimp. When we refret guitars with bound fretboards, we u.
Happy New Year, everybody! The last two years have. Starting Next week, we will be open 11a. Aaron grinds it out. YUGE stainless steel Jescar 58x fret wire, awai. One of the misconceptions about the PLEK is that i. Bowmap and Tone Deaf like this. Note that many locking tuners are staggered and get shorter as the strings get lighter. Using a 1 Philips screwdriver remove the string tree you won't be needing that ever again.
Bowmap likes this. The old nut has to be removed. If it is the factory nut, it is probably just glued in with white glue. If a player ever switches to lighter gauge strings, the nut has to be replaced, so this part of the job is easy "everyday" guitar owner stuff.
If you don't, you might chip off a big chunk of clearcoat while taping out the nut. Use a razor and score along the nut. Don't worry about cutting into the nut, you are throwing it away anyway - because once you install the LSR, you can freely change to different gauge strings and adjust the nut height of the strings without replacing the nut every time.
How cool is that? Here you can see the neck in a vise. Put the nut as close to the vise jaws as possible. You don't want to put a lot of leverage on the entire neck.
I used a hard rubber sheet to protect the neck from the wood jaws. Yes, I know the wood jaws are supposed to be a nice soft surface, but there could be some odd trash embedded into the wood, and we don't want that imprinting into our fine neck. Find a piece of wood to drive out the old nut. I used a paint stick that you get when you buy a can of paint.
The first tap breaks the nut free, the rest easily push it out. Here is the old nut free of it's neck. The old nut has a radius to it's base. The new LSR has a flat base; this makes fitment much easier! You can see the white glue in the old slot. Here is where you are going to need that digital caliper. Fender gives all the dimensions in decimal inches, no easy metric measurements on this one Hey, it's made in USA, right? Who needs silly Metric? We need to make the nut slot wider towards the bridge , and we need to make it deeper.
You can use the new LSR nut to lightly score a line where the wood will be removed. Remember to score the line just slightly INSIDE the desired width - you can always file out a little wood, but you can't add it back in.
This makes it easy to route a nice flat slot for the new nut. Measure the depth of the new slot from the center of the fretboard, because the fretboard has a radius of it's own. Tone Deaf and Bowmap like this. You can use a regular hand saw, and file for this part if you want to. Rosewood cuts like butter, so it's not like chiseling through some rock hard wood.
The new nut slot needs to be parallel to the frets and flat to the fretboard; so that's a job for an electric router if there ever was one. There are ways to skin the router guide cat, but to me, the easiest is to just use my dovetail jig. It already has a clamp to hold the neck in place, and it's super easy to "square up" to the frets, insuring a squarely cut slot. Here you can see the neck clamped in place, ready for a pass:.
The dovetail jig has a scale on the side so you can "sneak up" exactly on the. The router itself has a scale to let you plunge into exactly. It took longer to clamp up the neck than it did to actually do the routing. Bowmap , diogoguitar and Tone Deaf like this. Press the nut into the slot. Make sure it's not too tight if you have to tap it in with a mallet, it's going to be too tight to shim it if you need to do this latter. Make sure the mounting holes are facing the headstock!
Center the nut, and drill 2 pilot holes with the 51 drill bit. The slot is too narrow to use a collar stop on the drill bit, so I used a piece of tape to mark my depth. You don't want to drill all the way through the neck, if you know what I mean. Unclamp the neck and vacuum up any dust.
The smallest amount you can even dream of. Put the tuners back on remember, if they are the locking type, you may need to install them back in the correct order. Put the neck back on the guitar.
Dip the nut screws into auto wax they are so small that they might break if you have to drive them too hard. Put the strings back on the guitar. You are now free to try any gauge you like. Tone Deaf likes this. Tune up the guitar and check out the action. Lower the strings by turning the nut screws until you find a height that suits your playing style. Fender includes a bunch of stainless steel shims for you to adjust the action now or in the future so don't throw the extras away.
Tighten down the screws once you find the perfect height. Normally, players shy away from trying heavier gauge strings for the top strings, because you have to permanently cut the nut for the larger diameter strings. With the LSR, the strings ride on top of the ball bearings, so there are no slots to widen. You can experiment, without any commitment, with any gauge strings you like.
You can also experiment with any string height without worrying you cut the slots too deep and now you have to buy a new nut. A clever system, no doubt.
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